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This is useful for cutting masking tape and the sandpaper i use to stick on my sanding tool. It has gridlines to guide and make sure things are lined up straight

Nippers/Side cutters are a must if you are making many models. Nail clippers can do the job but this is much more comfortable and faster.

Super sharp all purpose knife for cutting plastics and also scraping away flash lines. Blades are change-able and can be fitted with chisel like blades to more easily scrape flash away.

Super glue comes in different consistencies, soome runny, some abit thicker. Its good because it hardens really good and can also be used to fill seams and gaps. There are also thin nozzles to apply small amounts accurately.

This I use to test the super glue to make sure its flowing before i apply it on the model. Squeezing CA glue directly on your model without making sure the glue has already reached the tip is not advised as it could squirt out in a huge glop and ruin your model.

To clamp sections of tubing before I bought my tubecutter. Its also useful when you glue things and need a third hand.

Sometimes if I’m in the mood I use these to sand down stubs and flash but they are a little on the rough side so that is not too often. They don’t grow dull though, so thats a good thing unlike sandpaper which clogs and becomes smooth.

This trusty 30cm metal ruler helps me to sand flat. If you use your fingers to sand, chances are you hare going to lose some nice panel edges and angles. You could use a table or flat surface to sand, but its less easy to work with than a ruler. This ruler still flexes abit though but its a good balance between flat surface and ease of movement.

A little maskng tape can first be stuck on the ruler and then wound around the ruler so the sticky side faces outside so as to stick the sandpaper to the ruler.

This is something special I can’t find anymore. Its coated with abrasive material, not just a sandpaper stuck on it or what. This makes it able to really smoothen out places well. Before my coat of primer i make sure i go over the whole model with this to smoothen out rough or uneven spots.

This is a closeup. The abrasive is somehow coated onto the sponge as a layer on the top. Adding water its possible to sand something really smooth and clean.

This one was cheap, about $6USD. Its not well made, but it does most rough and dirty jobs with ease. I got a set of grinding bits at $1USD. I found that most of the time it does away with the plastic by melting it through friction rather than really grinding it away. Still, its the same, makes holes easily.

The sawing tool i used before. $0.50USD how cheap is that man. I still use it to get through metal tube and other hard things like acrylic rods i use as stands.

Argh… one of my worst and most expensive buys. $16. I’m not saying its a lousy tool, its very important and useful but this academy pin vise is just too over-priced. Not to mention it broke the day i bought it hence you can see the masking tape holding it in one piece. For those in SG, daiso in IMM sells cheap $2 pin vise. A whole bunch of them is more convenient than one that you have to change teh bits all the time.

Bits. $16. expensive. ’nuff said.

it can be taken apart and all the different sized bits and chucks are all inside.

Great stuff. Replaces barrels, makes pistons, makes stands for your models, adds detail. So many uses. Don’t forget to polish before you start

Cuts tube but leaves a bevelled edge.

This is a container that screws onto each other so many many can be screwed together in a bunch. Its really quite good. Everything is accessible.

Tamiya type putty, pretty good.

Mine is tooo dried to tell if its good. But from the dried up bits it looks quite good.

Used to hold parts that i can’t stick a skewer into. Useful when masking soft edges and curvy things.

Used to hold parts while spraying them. One by one they are suck on with reversed masking tape or blutack.

For enamel paints. Usually i only use this for applying washes to panel lines.

For Mr Hobby Colour or acrylic paints.

Convenient application of thinner as using the bottle or dropper is troublesome. dropper gets too short when level runs low and pouring from the botttle s a seriously bad idea as it will surely dribble and get everywhere.

So much more convenient to spray compared to airbrush. The shear volume is also good. Just that theres no control. I only buy white because i hate painting white. Can’t see if its going on properly.

3 kinds - enamel, laquer and acrylic. Listed in descending order of toughness, difficulty of use, drying and curing time.

Enamel paint for panel lining. I thin it really really really thin. The various thinners don’t really eat each other up so you can wipe off excess and leave the underlying paint intact.

Great paints that make a great realistic metal finish!

hmm? double post. hah. Not really actually, because this has a second use, which is soft masking of areas so that the airbrushed paint will have a soft/feathered edge instead of hard lines. Good for camo schemes and irregularly shaped areas.

This one is a masking liquid that paints on and dries into a rubbery thing. After painting simply peel it off.

This is the most commonly used for masking. Although its S$3 a roll, its almost impossible to finish using it very quickly.

This is a picture of my compressor. No need for oil, its quiet and it produces enough pressure for perhaps one or two airbrushes. The maximum steady PSI is 25.

To look cool because actually its spoilt. nah, it really works. And its god to use because the pressure which you spray is pretty important. Is attachd to a moisture trap seen below

Cool thing. Its a double action meaning air and paint mix can be controlled. Pressing down on the trigger will release the air and pulling back will release the paint. Totally essential for a nice controlled paintjob

Sometimes you need to clean up a small hard to reach area, thats what the cotton bud is for. Dab some enamel thinner, clean up the enamel wash you just did.

I do washes using enamel paint. They are chemically different from laquers and don’t dissolve each other readily which makes them good for this purpose. You can use other colours to fill up the panel lines but black is still the most common.

Before i used enamel paint to do washes, i used this sakura micron 0.005 pen to draw panel lines. needless to say, it was still too thick.

Official Gundam markers. I think they are abit worse that the micron probably because i don’t practise much with them. I’ve seen people who have amazing results with this so its really up to the individual.

A kind of spray to coat the model with a protective layer. Comes in Gloss, Semi-Gloss and Flat types.

To brush off dirt and stuff i don’t like on my models. Also can be used during paint stripping when the paint is soft and can be rubbed off without scratching the plastic.