January 26th, 2006
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Archive for January, 2006
January 14th, 2006
I had trouble putting back all the white armour. A…
I had trouble putting back all the white armour. And was left pondering
together with the gundam as to where the two small parts went. Poring
through the manual and looking at the pictures didn’t help at all. But
that was eventually resolved!
January 14th, 2006
Oh well, I guess it couldn’t get much worse alread…
Oh well, I guess it couldn’t get much worse already, yesterday it got
much better as i stumbled upon drybrushing. Basically dipping brush in
paint, dabbing it on tissue until there’s very little then lightly
making passes over the parts. Usually dark colours have their details
accented by having silver paint on the edges and detais sticking out.
Just like how panel lines are drawn in to make the illusion of shadows,
this one gives the illusion of the light reflecting on the exposed
surfaces. and edges. Check out the a-little-bit-bigger picture for
comparison. before and after dry brushing the Mr colour chrome on to
the part, not too bad right? I thought it would be difficult but its
pretty easy really, next thing i’ll have to do for the model is to:
1) Finish dry brushing all the visible internals
2) Shade the edges and recesses of the white armour plates
3) Stick those disgusting bandai stickers onto the model.
Stickers are like a cheap substitute for waterslide decals and halfway
in between are those rub on dry transfers. Water slide decals are SUPER
thin and don’t stick out on the surface. whereas the stupid stickers
are so thick and start to trap dust at the edges of the stickers. They
can’t be coated over and they are easy to spoil. Too bad, there arn’t
any waterslide decals for this model in SG, have to order from HK but
nvm lah, not that important.
Drybrushed… Underneath you can see the “programming methology in C” for my programming module
How
i dried all the parts on a rainy day. Put them in a box and blow hot
air inside. Paint dries and cures in half and hour to an hour.
I’m getting quite motivated since its finishing already.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA…….. wanna faster finish it. Take so super
long to do, not my cup of tea.
January 10th, 2006
More from the world of modeling!
Its
been really slow in model world, some setbacks and disasters and REALLY
bad weather. It like raining 24/7 la! no chance to airbrush in good
weather. What difference does it make you ask? the humidity level when
it rains is super high. Accompanied by the fact that i’m already facing
ariver and live near the sea, its horrible. Firstly, water starts
condensing in the compressor cos as the air decompreses it cools and
condenses some water out. there’s a moisture trap for that purpose but
it gets half full in about an hour which is reall quite ridiculous.
Water spits out of the airbrush along with the paint and marrs your
good paintjob. The weathers also too cool for paint to dry properly,
dust and stuff settles on your wet paint and then dries. Oh well…
This is where i work, at my bro’s balcony. A high chair to sit on and
face the nice greenery as I paint. Trouble is parts dropping 3 stories
down into he beautiful greenery and gets lost forever. you can see the
contact lens solution bottle i use to put thinner. I took out the label
obviously, don’t want anyone to start cleaning their lenses with that
stuff. Airbrush is on the lower left, and the storage box i put
everything in.
some parts done, There were SO MANY PARTS that i used a entire bottle
of “Midnight Blue” (strange that it doesn’t look blue at all) to paint
it. oh well, there goes $2.40 i really think i might need some more.
The paint scratches easily, and the weather’s too bad to spray the “mr
Super Clear” to protect it. Oh well, more on that later.
closer up pic of the stuff i work on.
nice legs, very trouble some to paint, have to move it here and there
to get all the spots. Plus moving parts sometimes scratch each other.
So far no extremely visible damage.
its a foot, looks quite decent if i would say. I have to recolour all
the silver piston like parts that i covered in “midnight blue” or maybe
just black.
First disaster, as you can see the shield is sorta glazed and has a
cloudy look. IT IS NOT ON PURPOSE. Stupid “Mr Super Clear” only works
in hot and dry weather. Itssupposed to be a matt flat coat of clear
stuff that protects the paint. Sprayed on, looks fine.. then as it
dried it started becoming cloudier and cloudier unti i got what you see
here… aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa……
Horrors!
Luckily i have this $20 aeromatherapy lamp from thailand! i basically
heated the shield over it and made it hot then sprayed on another coat
of MSC.. The frosty look went away luckily… and i was left with this.
So far my worst build ever! My worst disasters on one model kit! oh
well, maybe not the worst, my 144 strike was worse… but neverthless,
still very sian la. I was quite excited initially at the idea of making
a PG, but now i realise why people don’t really choose this grade as
something to paint and modify or what. Its a real pain to paint! Now
i’m on to the white white portions. Those are REALLY a pain, cos you
don’t even know whether you covered the part! then the only time you
know is when the pain starts to run or build up and get spoilt. oh
man… =< anyhow, its realy an experience, probably my last. Also.
these things are meant to be fix posed i guess…
January 2nd, 2006
more progress!
Skewered all the parts with the help of my dear cousin Yao Hua in the
afternoon. Bsically putting masking tape on satay sticks and sticking
the parts on. The parts were large and required quite alot of spage…
they fell off during primng too cos the were heavy and din stick
properly.
These are un-primed parts. Basically, if you wanna get an even colour
and good adhesion to the plastic parts, you will need to prime your
parts.This means an undercoat of.. yes.. what else? primer of course.
its a white or grey coloured aint thats got little particles of size
you can choose. from very fine (1200) to slightly coarse (500). I tried
to use the cheaper bottled un-thinned one, but its impossible to use an
airbrush to apply cos even the finest grains get stuck in the airbrush
and kill it. I had such a horrible time cleaning it once cos particles
got stuck in the hole where the paint came out… anyway i use it in
the larger single action airbrush i have, that one’s more robust and
has a larger hole which the paint passes through. Control of the air
and paint mixture is really lousy though. The primer here is canned
version because its MUCH more reliable, don’t need cleaning, but its
roughly 2-3 dollars more. This model was so huge, i managed tofinish
priming the armour only before the can emptied. Internals remain
un-painted and un-paintable until i grab my single action to spray on
my leftover bottled primer. If not i’ll have to get another can of
primer, but thats ridiculous. Will cost $10-$12. Will see how it goes
first.
So
when you’re done priming, the parts will all look the same colour.
don’t need to be too detailed, just a general coat will do. This primer
is whitish grey. I’ve painted the yellow parts before i realised i
forgot to take a picture. An the tinge or red you see is the insides of
the red parts you won’t ever see anyway so no point wasting primer and
paint on it.
Closer pic of the painted parts. can’t really tell from these pictures
the diff but its a nice matt even colour. Honestly the primer wasn’t
the best job ever cos the plastic had either oil residue or dust i
didn’t clean off and wash properly. Its probably due to the long
storage in plastic bags for about 2 months while i examed and got
involved with church stuff..Caused some uneven-ness but can’t really
see it if you just look at it from normal distance. Close up is a diff
story though. I might get some brass coloured paint for the internals.
wheee… those are nice. have a bottle of chrome i bought quite a while
ago which i’m using for the giant sword. Itll have to take probably
about 15 more hours to finish everything. Total time spent skewering
and painting today is 5 hours which brings it to a total of 15hours
already.